I don't even know where to begin on this one. Honestly.
Let's start with the high level- Ayurveda is a 5000 year old natural approach to health and medicine. Parassini has an Ayurvedic university where people can study and become a nurse or a Dr. of Ayurveda. We have been studying Ayurveda history, learning its general philosophy, about preventative approaches, diagnosis techniques well as natural treatments at the university over the last three weeks. One of the things that comes up regularly as a way to prevent illness and treat chronic and manageable illnesses is through Ayurvedic massage.
When we were in Kannur last weekend I was able to have an Ayurvedic massage and it was both unnerving and amazing at the same time. Amazing in that the "spa" room was clean, private and right on the coast- I was able to listen to the waves of Arabian Ocean the entire time I was there. Unnerving in that this style of massage has not changed much over the last few thousand years- it's given on a wood table that looks like its something out of a Middle Ages torture chamber:
Oh, and you're pretty much completely naked (I don't really consider a light linen cloth between your legs, tied with a linen string around your waist covering) while a woman rubs hot, exotic smelling oil over your entire body.
Once I got over the fact that I was totally exposed and a complete stranger was giving me a rub down, and I realized that this was in fact her job, its just a body and she does this all the time, I relaxed and totally enjoyed the hourlong experience. This was not a massage that I'm used to, where a therapist focuses on one area of the body at a time and works into your muscles, and there's a sheet involved. While she did work certain muscle groups it was with both hands running over the surface of the body, vigorously rubbing this rich smelling oil in. It's something that you really have to experience as describing it is really difficult.
I remember feeling simultaneously relaxed and invigorated; alert and aware of everything going on around me, but in a really chilled out, no stress sort of way. Again, bliss.
I had another Ayurvedic massage at the university a couple hours ago and while I'm definitely alert, invigorated and my back feels great for the first time in two weeks, it was a completely different experience!!
At the University, before getting a massage I had to see a Dr of Ayurvedic medicine to have a type of massage prescribed. The consultation cost 20 Indian Rupees (about $0.35) and took less than eight minutes for two of us (Smita and I went together). He asked me about my general health and if I had any areas of complaint. After telling him about my very messed up back (and the bed I've been sleeping on at the house has NOT been helping!!) he prescribed a traction oil massage. Ok, first step complete.
Next I went to the dispensary to purchase the oil that would be used in the massage. After paying 150 Rupees ( a little less than $3) I had a bottle of oil and two seasons packets in hand. Step two complete.
Side note: everyone in our group had to see the Dr one day, and then schedule a time for their massage for another day/ time, so Smita and I expected the same... Not so. After paying for the treatment (265 rupees, or a little under $5) and about 20 minutes of trying to tell the therapist that I needed to get to Ayurveda class and wanted to schedule a time for the next day, I finally found a Dr who was able to help translate and sort it out. This was the first time I have felt really frustrated at being able to speak Malayalam (native Southern Indian language) since arriving. Thankfully it worked out and I had an appt set for today.
I arrived a few minutes early for my appointment and was called into a little treatment room right at 11. Awesome. Then I was told to change into my little loin cloth and hop on the table. Yep, same loin cloth, same torture devise looking table. With no changing room and like six women looking at me I basically stripped down, got a little help from a giggling therapist watching me struggle with this piece of cloth, and hopped on. Because a few of out group had already had massages at the school I knew what was coming next, but it was still a bit of a shock.
I started face down and there were two pairs of hands working on my back, shoulders and arms (which has been raised over my head). About there minutes after they started another set of hands started in on my left leg, and a minute later a fourth pair started on my right. Yep, I had four women working on me at once.
I was trying to relax, but there's something about having six people (four therapists and two students observing and helping) whom you really can't communicate with, giggling and chatting as they work hot oil into virtually every wrinkle, fat roll and inch of your skin that makes chilling out a bit difficult. It was a bit intense. At one point one of the therapists burped and it was my turn to giggle.. Couldn't be helped.
How does that saying go- many hands make light work? This massage lasted about 30 minutes in total, including a bit of a "traction" treatment where one woman pulled on a leg and another pulled on the opposite arm to try and stretch out my back. To be honest I don't know if I could have handled a full hour- I was feeling pretty oily and done after 30 minutes.
After chilling out on a wooden stool for about 10 minutes I was able to get into the bathroom and wash. I'm not going to say I showered as I didn't really shower so much as use a clean bucket is water and a cup, but it was warm water and in sooo not complaining :). I discovered that the seasoning packets were actually a special soap to help get the oil off your skin. While it worked, I was still happy that I brought my own, as well as my own towel :)
I'm writing this in the cafeteria at the school, waiting for the rest of the volunteer group to arrive for lunch. I'm still a bit greasy but feel pretty good and am ready for the rest of the day, as well as another shower as soon as I get back to the house tonight :).
#achievement unlocked: Ayurvedic massage.
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