Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Playing Tourist in Panjim

Monday, 29 July

Today was all about playing tourist in Panjim.. full on cameras around the neck, guide book out, and shopping for little knick knack presents to take home.  Here are a handful of my favorite pics from the day.. 

There is a new Ganesh Temple just down the street from the apartment.. and across the street from the bus stop- we have been saying that we need to check it out since arriving, and today was the day :)
The temple had a gorgeously carved set of front doors.. 

 with the coolest door handle... 

 and very cool statues all along the rooftop..

 and fun little friends around the temple.. 

After hopping on the bus we made our way down to the market- pretty much anything you want to consume was sold here, from food (fish, veggies, chickens- live and dead etc) to clothes, bangles and so much more!

I mustache you a question..... (heh.. sorry, couldn't help myself :)  









Here's a shop woman with a million bangles putting a set on to Eveline's arm.. just after she was able to jam a couple dozen onto my wrist..
which basically looked like.. and I quote Eveline on this one.. "a drag queen threw up all over my hand"




OK seriously!?  Texas!?  I could not bring myself to go in...

Street food is all over here, as well as a few rays of sunshine.. the first I've come across pretty much the entire time I've been here!

Safety first... 


All in all it was a really beautiful day, and it was fun to have no schedule, agenda or anything to do other than explore :)

 

Savoy Spice Plantation

Sunday, 28 July

We hopped on the bus to Panjim and the central bus station, then transferred to another bus and made our way toward the district of Ponda.  Indian music blaring through the speakers.  Lots of people watching and entertainment value.  Seriously, this bus thing is pretty easy and cheap and a part of the whole Indian experience...  We've been hopping on and off local busses since I arrived three plus weeks ago- only during the day mind you, and I'm going to be sad to stop after Goa.. but there's no way in Hell i'm doing this in Mumbai.. I'm adventurous, not stupid =)  Sorry, tangent.  

ANYWAY- Today we went to the Savoy Spice Plantation, and it was amazing.
It's an organic, 100 acre farm in a valley that caters to tourists by providing tours and lunches while still being a working farm.  If you're ever in Goa and want to check out a spice plantation, do yourself a favor and explore this one- it's beautiful, it's organic, it's family owned, our guide was knowledgeable and patient, and while they don't have elephants like some of the others do, this is a very good thing as the elephants at the other plantations are pets, not wild animals, and I think that would be a bit heartbreaking to see. 

OK, again, back to the spice plantation.  It was absolutely BEAUTIFUL!  Because it's Monsoon season not many things were in peak season or blooming, but it was still stunning...so many vibrant colors. We saw vanilla pods, cinnamon trees, cardamom, neem, pepper and clove plants.  We saw lemon grass, limes, the biggest GD grapefruit you've ever seen, mangos, pineapple, bananas, jalepeno peppers, fracking crocodiles, a spice that has no English name but was in every one of the Southern Indian dish I had the first two weeks, and a few others that I can't remember right now.... We were able to taste leaves, sometimes the actual fruit of the plant, and learned how everything was processed for consumption.  Educational, and fun :)  















and one of me to prove that yes, I really was here... although I hadn't really slept the night before and I look like a sweaty tired mess.. I am seriously looking forward to London and being able to actually do something with my hair other than pull it back and keep it off my neck! :)

The tour included lunch, which was way too much food for two people, and the view really didn't suck.. 

A very good day indeed.  

If you're interested.. 
Savoi Plantation
Savoi, Ponda- Goa, India
www.savoiplantation.com
savoiplantation@gmail.com


  

Go Go Goa!

Saturday 27 July 

I really like Goa!  It feels very different than Kerala in a lot of ways (even though the landscape is very similar- tropical, jungly, and very, very green).  You can see the influence of centuries of Portuguese influence in the architecture, as well as the influence of being a massive tourist hot spot in the number of touristy shops, how people dress, oh, and the KFCs and Dominoes and other western influences. 

While there is still garbage all over the place, there are a ton of "do not litter" type signs and garbage cans everywhere... it feels like the first time I have seen a city make an effort to be clean.  There are still a ton of stray dogs and cats everywhere, but I have also seen a handful of animal clinics and dogs with collars being treated as pets.  It also feels like there is more space here- things do not feel so compact and built up here as they did in Kannur and Mangalore.  It feels like there is an effort to conserve the natural state of things here and I like that.  I know that this is not really representative of the rest of India in that there has been a lot of European influence over the last few centuries, but i guess that is a big part of this country's story... overall this feels like a great place to chill out, explore a bit, and relax between the crazy of volunteer camp and what I'm sure will be ridiculous insanity in Mumbai. 

Because it's Monsoon season a lot of things are closed- however there are a lot of things still to see.  We grabbed a bus to Old Goa today and explored a few old churches and a temple- we needed to balance out the slightly overbearing, over the top indulgence of Catholic Churches with a bit more of a modest Hindi Temple.  

The "Bom Jesus" cathedral   

Bom Jesus facade

Hindi and Christian cultures meet

Yep, Opulent.

Just across the street from the Bom Jesus is the largest cathedral in Goa- the Se Cathedral.  Also beautiful, also over the top in the way that only Catholic Churches can be.  




 ... but with a bit of Indian influence as well as the Portuguese.  

And to balance it out a bit, we visited a Hindi Temple before heading back to the apartment and homemade dinner... Of course I can't access those photos now, but I'll post later :)

  


Friday, July 26, 2013

Northbound to Goa!!

26 July

Boo for 5:15am* wake up calls, Yeah for the next part of my great Indian adventure!!

Arrived at Mangalore central train statin at 5:55 am for our 6:17 train. 
Holy crap these are crazy long trains!!

We booked tickets yesterday and we didn't really have any choice for seat class, so we're in the general seating area.. I look forward to the eventual back pain these seats and a seven and a half hour ride will deliver.....

Knackered** but on our way to Goa for six fabulous nights!! 

Pro tip: always double check your tickets at the station.. Apparently a Dutch "6" looks like an "8".. So instead of getting tickets for today (26 July), the ticket agent issues tickets for the 28 of July. We had to buy new tickets on the train..  our R160 fare ($3 for both of us) turned into a R 680 fare ($11.50) due to a fine...Still not too bad... 


Looking out the train door at the back of our car- which is just open. Yes, I know I am a klutz and no, I didn't get close to the edge as I highly doubt they'd stop if I fell out :). 

Looks a bit like Florida if you ask me....

But Seriously, this country is unbelievably beautiful. 


Ultimately we made it to Margao train station in the state of Goa.  We're staying on the west side of Panaji so after an hour taxi ride we were finally at the hotel!! One night here, then we move to a two bedroom apartment I found in Air BnB. One of the few good things about traveling during monsoon season? Everything is super cheap :). 

Getting settled then off to explore Panjim and find some food. So excited to actually be here and the ability to chill out, not worry about schedules and just relax for a few days!!!

* after three consecutive early mornings please do not expect these to be coherent, sensical or in any way entertaining :). 

** ok, knackered, and in need of hair product or a blow out bc holy crap I am either sporting a serious maltese fro, or my hair is limp and scraggly from constantly being pulled back in a ponytail.